A Short Guide to DIY Comic Book Grading
You cannot find your comic book values without first knowing the grade of your comics. While the condition of a comic can be graded using CGC’s scale from 1 to 10 — 1 being the worst condition and 10 being the best possible condition — collectors commonly use these adjectives to describe a comic’s condition: Mint, Near Mint, Very Fine, Fine, Very Good, Good, Fair, and Poor. These are sometimes abbreviated. (See below.)
Here is a rough guide on how to evaluate the grade of a comic yourself. You should note that this is a rough guide and you shouldn’t depend on the grade you arrive at. It’s easy to overestimate the grade of a comic. If in doubt, presume your comic is graded lower. This should, however, with the Overstreet Price Guide, give you some idea of your comic book values.
Mint (MT)
A Mint comic is perfect. An incey, wincey crease turns a comic from Mint to Near Mint. The comic should lie completely flat, and there should be no creases or wear on the spine or corners. The colors should be bright like it has just been printed. The staples shouldn’t be rusted. I cannot emphasise enough that the comic should be completely flawless. I’ve heard it said that a Mint comic is an imaginary comic, and perhaps they’re right. I mention this not because I want to insult your comic collection due to jealous and bitter tendencies, but because it’s a useful point of reference to compare other grades.
Near Mint (NM)
All that is needed to turn a comic from Mint to Near Mint is to open the comic. The only difference from a Mint comic is that there can be very minor imperfections at very close inspection. There may be the smallest of creases along the spine or around the staples, but everything else must be perfect.
Very Fine and Fine (VF and FN)
A Very Fine comic may have a small amount of wear, while still being clean and glossy. It may lie almost flat rather than completely flat. There may be some minor discoloration to the pages, but nothing major. There may be one or two small creases and tears along the spine, and some very minor corner creases. This is probably the best grade an old comic book can hope for. On top of the imperfections listed above, a Fine comic may have slightly blunted corners. The spine may bend up slightly. There may be very small tears and creases on some of the pages, along with small stains.
Very Good and Good (VG and GD)
A comic of these grades won’t have major defects, but they will have defects rather than just imperfections. Although a Good comic tend to be thorougly used, they will still be completely readable. The staples may be slightly discolored and the colors may be faded. The creases on the corners will be more noticable, rather than just tiny creases. The pages may have more noticable tears, and the spine may be more bent. There may be some writing or stickers on the comic.
Fair and Poor (FR and P)
This is where comic books go when they die. That said, even comics of these grades are readable. The cover may be detached. There may be big tears and folds. Parts of the comic may be ripped or cut out. Staples may be missing. It will have major wear, discoloration, and fading. The spine may be split and taped together. It may have large stains and be brittle. You will not pass go. You will not collect $200 — well, probably not, anyway.
I should mention that if a comic is restored or repaired in any way, its value will be affected. Grading a comic is as much an art as it is a science. Even professional graders can disagree whether a comic is a 9.8 grade or a 9.6 grade, for example. This is why I’ve kept broad catagories in my guide above, rather than try to define the minute factors that can change a grade by 0.2.
If you don’t want to pay for your comic to be graded by the CGC, and you don’t want to rely on the opinion of a comic book dealer, then grading your comics yourself is the safest route. Along with my short grading guide, you can search the web for other free guides. Happy hunting!
